Xiaomi M365 (Pro)

General discussion of Xiaomi Mijia M365 Electric Scooter

I did not understand exactly what these files are for.

What does it mean "ForceUid"?

Is it for error 22?

Thank you

Yes, these files fix error 22.

Is it possible to flash clone bms B 3664 10s with this file ,without stlink ,just with m365 downG ,for fix error 22 ?

Because with st link the process is very difficult and and very long .

thanks

what is the firmware bms 1.26 for? What does it bring and especially for what model of scooter (pro or normal)?

>> Can someone please take time and explain me step by step and hopefully with pictures what i have to do to install this brake pedal ( i mean where to cut, solder and modyfy the wires) ?

There is nothing special in this process, basically you need to swap connector from original brake handler to gas pedal.

This need to be done because those connectors are specially inverted for preventing mistakes at assembly time.

The are 3 wires in new break connector so you need to solder Black cable to Black, Red to Red and Blue to Green on gas pedal.

I will post some pictures for illustration today

This is how i use throttle actuator as brake

Hello I come back for my problem with CF1.

After a problem with the battery, I had to change the CF1 capacitor 1 month ago. It had worked well, it worked fine.

I also deleted U4 to be sure I didn't have a problem.

After a month, the cell voltages displayed in m365 tools was bad on C10 and C9.

The tension displayed in m365 tools did not correspond to that which I noted with the multimeter.

I checked CF1 and understood that it had a problem again.

This time I completely removed CF1.

Everything is working again now.

I would like to know why CF1 burns all the time.

Thank you for your reply .

You need a high voltage capacitor there (or just remove it completely).

ok i remove cf1 ,if it s ok i don t need to replace .

thanks !

Рейтинг модели: 4.3

Страница модели в каталоге

Отзывы, формирующие рейтинг

Владельцы на карте

Где купить

Original mesage from Artem Churyakov

I want to describe here my opinion on what needs to be done in order for Xiaomi mijia m365 to become a reliable workhorse for every day. In addition to the foregoing:

1) Change the standard deck cover to the cover from Dochello. This will prevent dumping of contacts on the battery, protect the heads of the mounting bolts from accidental impact, resulting in damage to the deck. Also, with this protection, the scooter is easier to wash.

2) Change the tab / hook fixing the folding mechanism to reinforced from b95 alloy. We change the axis of the folding mechanism to a reinforced one made of tool steel. We put a butterfly to eliminate the remaining micro-backlash. This will save health and money in the future, do not neglect, there are already injuries due to breakdown of the addition unit at speed.

3) Install the pad on the main panel of the steering wheel, to prevent moisture from entering under the button. There are dozens of cases of burned circuit boards due to water that has got through the button.

4) We put the protection of the rear gauge wire from rubbing, we put the wing amplifier. This will prevent breakage of the wing from shaking and rupture of the rear gauge wire.

5) We seal with a sealant all rubber bands / plugs of wires on the frame.

6) Change or glue tires. Change cameras to thicker ones. Keep the recommended pressure. This will prevent chafing of chambers and rush of cord on tires.

Very worthless braking has been tuned by the manufacturer. If you hold the handbrake "on the floor" - the wheel is not even going to lock.

I decided to adjust. I cover the sequence of actions for everyone. The difficulty level for trained mechanics is medium))

1. First you need to adjust the position of the right brake pad relative to the disc. We loosen the screws securing the caliper (A) 1, 2, completely loosen the fastening of the cable with screw 4. We release the lever (B) by unscrewing the screw from the axis 3. Take out the boot, the return spring. We turn axis 3 clockwise a quarter of a turn, the left block moves away from the disk.

Next, shift the caliper to the left along the scooter (or towards you in the photo) until the right shoe contacts the brake disc. We try to place the caliper strictly parallel to the disk. Lightly tighten screws 1.2. Lift the rear wheel and scroll it. The disc should lightly touch the block, but the wheel should not lock and rotates easily. Happened? Tighten the screws 1.2. As a rule, the disk in this case is even less in contact with the right block.

2. Now you need to bring the left brake pad as close as possible to the brake disc. Check the brake lever on the steering wheel - released, the cable sheath - in the groove.

 Turn the lever (B) counterclockwise until it stops, while the wheel is inhibited. For a fraction of a millimeter, turn the lever clockwise. Raise the rear wheel, make sure that the wheel is released. Without moving the lever (B) on the axis 3, gently but firmly tighten the cable fastening bolt 4.

3. We assemble back the return spring, the boot, tighten the bolt to the axis 3.

Original message from Фёдоров

Size 10x2 ". Internal diameter 156 mm. For installation: in front you need to file a wing bolt or put a screw with a flat head. And raise the wing with a spacer on the back.

Pressure Rating: 35 PSI.

Expected profit: increased comfort, soft ride, possibly increased speed)

Errors can be counted in three places.

1) An application, if it is possible to connect to the BLE module, which is most often not possible, the error decryption is also occasionally there

2) Squeak in the form of long and short signals

3) Green LED on the main scooter controller

all errors are two-digit, long signals are the first digit, short ones are the second digit, in quantity.

Most of the codes are obtained from the analysis of the firmware code and experimentally, inaccuracies are possible. The codes are for firmware v1.3.0, other versions are subject to change.

• 10 Communication with the panel is anomalous
• 11 Phase A of the motor current is abnormal
• 12 Phase B of the motor current is abnormal
• 13 Phase C of the motor current is abnormal
• 14 Acceleration sensor reading is abnormal
• 15 Brake sensor read is abnormal
• 18 Motor sensor read is abnormal
• 21 Communication error with the BMS
• 22 Bad BMS password
• 23 Serial number of the anomalous BMS
• 24 Abnormal system voltage
• 26 Save operation in the Flash memory is wrong, please check the controller
• 27 Bad controller password
• 28 Some state of the MOSFET is anomalous
• 29 Low status of the MOSFET is anomalous
• 31 Program jump error
• 35 Serial number of the scooter is wrong
• 39 Temperature of the battery sensor is abnormal
• 40 Sensor temperature of the controller is abnormal

Hello

my friend made a short circuit with the motor phase wires.

Nothing has come on since. The bluetooth and motor controller no longer works.

I would try to repair at least the motor controller.

You may know what may have burnt out due to the short circuit of the phase wires?

Thank you

This topic is for those who thought about the “light upgrade” of their Xiaomi m365 or PRO using an LED strip without the need to spoil the appearance (IMHO), hanging bags with additional batteries, a controller, etc. on the xiaokat, as well as exposing them to the universal Review of additional collective farm wires extending from a bag with an external battery or from a "goose" (if powered by a standard battery) to the tape.

Short background / similar installation options for LED strip

Option 1 - original, inventive, but with BUT ...

The idea of ​​installing LED strip, in principle, is not new. Inspired me by her @spymen creation.

Cons of this option (for me):

1) the battery is external, although neatly located in the steering tube

2) an additional hole has been made in the pipe to output the charging wire

3) on the steering wheel next to the flu, an abnormal backlight control button is "planted"

For aesthetic reasons and not only (fussing with hole drilling is also a lot + inconvenient to constantly separately charge the battery for backlighting + this same customized battery still needs to be assembled from smaller ones + think how to charge it all) for me this option was unacceptable.

Option 2 - fast ... with all that it implies

Here is the video on YouTube from the Germans - they also have an external battery, but, unlike spymen, they have a makeshift design (they used to fix the tape on the mounting foam, instead of using connectors, they were not pros in this, etc.). Moreover, their option is one of the fastest, you can manage in an hour.

Option 3 - even faster, but not for everybody

I considered this option even before I decided to get into the battery compartment, although it was intended to highlight shoes (but what difference does it make, because you can customize any idea to your needs).

For it, you just need to buy on AliExpress a set of two (relatively dead) RGB tapes: the kit includes two very neat tiny batteries with built-in controllers, two units with backlight control buttons and a micro USB input for recharging the batteries, and two micro USB cables for carrying out recharging. The declared life expectancy from one charge is 8 hours, the charge itself lasts 2 hours (not tested). Bought, delivered after I finished my upgrade. I do not regret, my creation is much better. Here is a link to the goods, the seller fulfilled his obligations, in principle, I recommend it.

Option 4 - Close to Ideal

And here is another video on YouTube (+ a fairly detailed description of the upgrade process and a demonstration of the "insides") with a more accurate and acceptable approach for me.

FastMotion YouTube Video Screensaver

Its main advantage is that the tape is powered by a standard battery. But there are also disadvantages:

1) The controller is not controlled by air - again, an abnormal button next to the flu.

2) I need a voltmeter to adjust the lowering and not to kill the tape (I do not have it, I do not intend to buy for the sake of a single use)

3) The bottom of the deck / battery compartment is increased, a transparent cover (!) Is placed, under which the tape is located - I do not have such an upgrade and I'm not going to do it, so the option is unacceptable

4) * In a similar version, without upgrading the deck with a transparent cover (another video, I don’t remember where I found it), the wires are output through the “goose” - it looks collective.

Well, there’s also a huge minus of the last option (although there is nothing to blame the author for, you need to thank him on the contrary for the done thing) - there is no detailed step-by-step instruction on how to set the backlight yourself if you are a complete noob in these matters, and pay master bushes at exorbitant prices for actually cheap I don’t feel like an option that can and get bored after a month. NOW THE INSTRUCTION IS!

My custom LED strip installation option

I was not too lazy and before the start of work I drew up a diagram (as I could, not my specialization, but it is accessible to the average user), then, upon completion, I supplemented it for clarity with photos and model names of those “ingredients” that I used. If I had such an instruction at the time the upgrade started, I would have spent 3 days on it (free time, of course, working for a couple of hours in total), and not 3 weeks. The diagram below, but for now, the pluses and minor (IMHO) cons of my option.

Pros:

1) Used a WiFi controller. It is controlled through the application on the phone (Magic Home). A router for the controller is not needed !!! For some reason, nowhere (not a single seller) has a word about this, it’s good that I dug off the instructions from the manufacturer. Connecting to a router and the Internet makes it possible to use voice commands through Google Assistant and similar services, as well as control the controller from anywhere in the world. The stated 50 meters for me with a direct connection to the phone controller is enough for me to freely control the backlight on the street without reference to home WiFi. With such a connection, absolutely all options are available, except those that require access to the Internet, and they are one, two, and miscalculated.

2) I used a lowering device with a built-in voltmeter. We click on the black button and the voltage automatically drops to 24 volts, then in a special place (I don’t know the name) we bring / screw it up to a maximum of 12 volts with a screwdriver. Everyone was frightened that at less than 12 volts the tape would not work. Nonsense!!! It works with 3, it just shines dimly and that's it. I have 10-11 volts because the lowering was heating up, after the fact in the electronics store they said that it was the norm, the main thing is that the temperature should not reach 70 ° С. I didn’t reach it, I didn’t redo it, and so everything is fine.

3) Put everything in the pipe. Everything is a controller, a lowering, a safety lock. There is not enough space, but at the same time it is necessary to make sure that the lower man feels more comfortable than others, because it heats up the most and it needs the maximum available free space to remove heat. At least I think so 🙂. If desired, everything fits perfectly.

4) I brought the wire through the output for the rear light. Thus, the handicraft is practically not visible, with the output through the steering column can not be compared. To do this, I slightly cut the rubber (I can and should do without it, I forgot to stick the wires in front of the solder, then the wires did not fit with the connector), which fixes the tail light wire in the deck + made a little bigger hole (but you can’t do without it). Everything sits like a glove, in view of the violation of water protection there is no hint. After getting out of the deck, he led him through a hole next to the rear wing. There are two such holes, a brake cable goes through the left one, the right one is free, and we use it.

5) The procedure for connecting the backlight. First of all, we connect the tape installed on the right side of the deck. Then she uses a 4 pin connector to connect to the wires, they encircle the front of the deck and, in turn, connect through the same connector to the second tape mounted on the left side of the deck.

6) Mounting tapes and wires on the deck. I used 3M double-sided tape with moisture protection (you need to take the best and actually the most expensive, then the remainder in the farm will be 100% useful). Powerful thing !!! Asphalt on the roads is not so hot, pedestrians are all in stone tiles + there are also curbs, which I jump with pleasure. Nothing comes off!

7) Insulation. We take the LED strip with maximum protection against water (IP65 - IP67). But this is the easiest, because there are also wires, and most importantly - connectors. For insulation, I partially used heat shrink (not cut into neat pieces, but sold by meters). It is designed for very thick wires, so 4 tiny backlight wiring fits perfectly in one such heat shrink. About the connectors below.

Now cons that you can easily avoid

1) Insulation of wires and connectors. In heat shrink, I only have the wire that comes out of the deck. The wire connecting the two tapes together is insulated with ordinary electrical tape - there was simply not enough heat shrinkage. Probably at some point just cover it with sealant. The same applies to connectors. I have not done this until the present moment only because my ribbons are not very long and there is a chance that I will replace it. I used what was at hand - 35 cm on each side. On the left, where the leg is located and occupies part of the deck, this is the same (40 can be), and for the right side is not enough, there all 50-60 cm will fit.

2) Rubber insulation. It's about rubber, through which wires pass to the taillight from the deck and already to the backlight. Although everything looks OK, I think you need to drip the sealant here. God saves man, who save himself!

3) Isolation of lowering. Using the example of the above video, I wrapped the lowering in an insulating tape. Later, they told me at the electronics store that it was not necessary to do this, it wouldn’t “throw lightning”, but the insulation could have affected the heating of the lowering (more precisely, the impossibility of removing heat). Again, I will not redo, but you keep in mind.

Notes.

Purchase parts and links. There are no links to AliExpress, it was not a hunt to wait at least half a month for delivery, because I bought everything from local stores (yes, more expensive, but the time was also money + fuse could pass). At the same time, on Ali, all the details indicated in the diagram are available, searched, found. The names are given, you can find and buy yourself, I will not recommend this or that seller, since I did not buy it myself.

A photo. My photos are blurry, I'm sorry. I finished it at 3 a.m., the lighting was nowhere worse, the mood was even worse, the camera and the whole phone were in flux (soldered for the first time in my life). Here is the result. The scheme is in the norm of quality only because I then finished it off with a fresh mind. If you have questions, write, I will answer. If necessary, I will try to take a picture again, but I do not promise - I can’t see this battery compartment already.

Scheme. I have a diagram in English, because oriented it initially to an international audience. In this case, the names of spare parts are indicated mainly. Problems with the language barrier should not arise, but if there are incomprehensible moments, write, I will translate what is needed. Fussing with the scheme in Photoshop is a separate story, because I also do not want to climb there again unless absolutely necessary. IMPORTANT!!! If something is not visible on the diagram due to the quality of the photo (JPG), also write, I can save it in PDF.

Video. A video of less or less acceptable quality (filmed in the evening on the phone), which will show the exterior of the scooter with a backlight, the place where the wire is output from the deck, the procedure for connecting the backlight, as well as a superficial overview of the Magic Home application and the backlight control process, will be soon dropped. There are many videos, you need to glue, trim, remove unnecessary sounds, etc.

Comments / tips / comments. As they say, your call is important to us. Therefore, if you are special in this area, comment, point out shortcomings, suggest your options. I, most likely, will not use it, because I have enough of these upgrades, but others may come in handy. If necessary, I will make changes to the original text + in the scheme.

Original post from @Sliminator

I made this decoupler. I connected 2 original batteries and 2 motor to this decoupler.

When I connect an application like m365 dasboard, the secondary controller becomes inactive, it no longer responds, and does not turn off.

When I disconnect the bms socket on the secondary controller, the problem returns but less quickly.

Will it work with software bms emulator?

 i have test with bms software emulator ,and the problem is the same .

it s not possible to connect app with decoupler .

m365 downg work ,but if i push Batt_info the secondary controller stop and is blocked ,need to unplug for restart .

it s not possible to  monitor when i have decoupler?

i think its software problem .

m365 tools not made problem with secondary controller ,if i dont plug 3pin bms ,but error 22 ...